An easy hike to a stunning village with breathtaking views of the Julian Alps
Planina Zajamniki is a magnificent little wooden village set in the Triglav Natural Park. From here, you can enjoy exceptional views of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj. The Triglav (Slovenia’s highest peak) is right in the centre of the village.
This walk, which takes just under 3 hours round trip, is uncomplicated and completely safe. You walk on a 4×4 track.
Where is the start of the walk?
The starting point is not far from lakes Bled and Bohinj. You start from the Pokljuka plateau. Enter Rudno Polje in your GPS. The road to the start of the hike is nice, wide and winding. There are no difficulties. In summer, you can even reach the start by bus.
Park at Rudno Polje. Parking is charged in summer (€7 in cash) or free if you use the army car park. The two car parks are next to each other. One is chargeable and the other is free which is a little confusing.
Accommodation: The area is charming and you’ll be right next door to two excellent accommodations that I’d recommend around Lake Bohinj and in particular Tadej’s, who finished 7th in the Tour de France.
- Ljubljana – Bled – Rudno Polje
- 72 km – 1h – motorway and wide road
- Lake Bled – Rudno Polje
- 19 km – 25 min – wide road
- Lake Bohinj – Rudno Polje
- 18 km – 30 min (nice but more winding road)
What does this walk look like?
The start and finish points in the wooden village of Zajamniki are at almost the same altitude (1,300m), but that doesn’t mean there isn’t a difference in altitude. The first part of the walk takes you down a gentle slope, before climbing again in the second part. You’ll be walking mainly in woodland.
Shortly after the start, you’ll walk for 20 minutes through an open alpine area with a view of the mountains, but this beautiful, unobstructed view won’t last long. In general, there are no views for much of this walk, which some may find a little tiring. However, the trees are tall and if the sun is out, you can take advantage of their precious shade to stay cool and not sweat like a Slovenian ox.
During this hike, you can chat to friends and family as you walk side by side, and time flies. The route is not difficult, as a 4×4 could use it without any problem. You’ll be walking for just under 3 hours each way. It’s an easy walk, but by the end, back at the car park, you’ll still have plenty to do (unless you’re a seasoned hiker).
On arrival, an amazing village and a magical view
The real attraction of this hike lies in its finish, the spectacular wooden village of Zajamniki. It’s off the beaten track and I don’t think you’ll meet many other tourists there. I’ve noticed since I’ve been talking about it that even my Slovenian friends don’t usually know about this place. Once you’re in the village, take the time to admire each wooden cowherd’s house. They’re really beautiful, especially when you take a photo of them with the mountains in the background.
If you’re looking for a more challenging hike, head for Visenik. Start at the same place.
Tips for taking a fabulous photo of the village
You can take the splendid photo you saw at the beginning of the article by going to the end of the village and climbing the hill to the isolated little wooden hut.
Tip: Don’t forget to climb down the hill a little, as you’ll get the best angle a little lower down. It’s enough to make your Instagram heart counter explode.
You’ll feel great. Take time to relax in the village before setting off again. You can even stay until sunset. It sets right in the centre of the village in summer and it’s splendid. You’ll need to take a headlamp with you as you follow the path (an effective headlamp costs just €5 from Decathlon).
Read also: the best accommodation around Lake Bohinj (accommodation is available in this pretty area)
How do I find my way around?
- Once you’ve parked in Rudno Polje, you’ll see the Pokljuka centre hotel and, in front of it, a Biathlon stadium where an international competition is held every year. Drive along the side of the Biathlon stadium, keeping it on your right
- Continue a little further and you’ll see a wooden sign pointing to Uskovnica. Follow it! You’ll then see another sign for Koca na Uskovnici (the same place as Uskovnica). This will take you temporarily out of the forest, and only on this part of the path will you enjoy a view of the mountains.
- After half an hour, a sign on the left indicates Praprotnica, which you can either follow or take the next parallel path, which has a Zajamniki sign. This wooden sign points the way to ” Pl. Praprotnica, Zajamniki, Konjska Dolina, Jelje “.
- You’ll then walk through the forest for an hour or so until you reach the wooden village below on your right. Don’t miss it, as Planina Zajamniki is somewhat hidden by the forest.
On the way back, you can pass through the wooden village of Praprotnica (see map at end of article), to make the walk more varied.
Where to eat in the area?
In Slovenia, the golden rule is to always eat in the mountains or in the countryside when you’re passing through.
On this walk, you can enjoy a hearty meal for around €12 in the hotel right next to the car park. It has a lovely terrace. You can have a cappuccino before or after the ride for less than two euros, or a tall cold beer for 3.50 euros. A real treat on the way back from a hike. They also make great crêpes.
In the wooden village of Zajamniki, there is unfortunately no refuge where you can eat. It was never open each time I went there, but a hut seems to sell yoghurt and cheese in summer. Pack some Slovenian bread and smoked ham in your rucksack and you’ll have a delicious picnic overlooking the Triglav National Park. You’ll find a Mercator supermarket on your way to Lake Bled.
The other place to eat is a refuge serving traditional dishes in beautiful mountain surroundings, but to get there you’ll have to make an extra 20-minute diversions (one way) when you’re on your way back. Follow the signs to Uskovnica(Koca na uskovnici). This was the name on the signpost you followed at the very start of this walk. I highly recommend this diversions as the path passes through the mountain pastures and a wooden hamlet, this time with an unobstructed view. You’ll come across cows and a charming little wooden church… A truly beautiful and traditional Alpine Slovenia.
Tip : If you’ve already eaten or had a picnic, go there anyway for a dessert, tea or beer. The view and the village are well worth the 40-minute round trip you’ll have to make.
With its little mountain flowers and wooden houses, Uskovnica is an idyllic spot!
Journey time: Wooden village of Zajamniki – Koca na uskovnici – 1h
Tip: Once you arrive in this other wooden village, you’ll have trouble finding the hostel. Follow the wooden signs for “Koca”.
For lunch at the refuge, follow this sign, which you’ll come across on the way back.
Map of this easy hike
As you can see, there are many paths on this magnificent plateau. Follow the red and yellow paths on the way out. On the way back, if you’re comfortable reading a map, I strongly advise you to take the small black dotted paths, passing through the wooden village of Pl. Praprotnica for example (using the small black paths on the map). Plan your route. You won’t go far wrong. This is a plateau, so there’s no risk of finding yourself climbing an extra 1,000 m.
Google map: If you’re more comfortable using your smartphone than a map, you can follow this route.
To find out what to do for the rest of the day, read this article on the Alpine pastures route between Bled and Bohinj
Zajamniki is also a beautiful place in winter