Not to be missed, as they provide an opportunity to discover a part of Yugoslav culture
Slovenia is influenced by the countries that surround it, particularly the Balkan countries (those that made up Yugoslavia). Nowadays, they play an active part in Ljubjan’s culinary scene.
In many of Ljubljana’s restaurants, you can discover Balkan specialities.
They have the advantage of being inexpensive, hearty and tasty (if you like grilled meats). There’s so much to discover: try these must-try dishes:
- Cevapcici (small rolls grilled on the BBQ)
- Pleskavica (minced meat patty)
- Burek (puff pastry filled with cheese, meat, etc.)
Cevapcici and Pleskavica
Ćevapčići are small pieces of minced meat originating from the Balkans, more specifically from the former Yugoslavia. This traditional dish is very popular in Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Serbia. I find it everywhere when I travel to these countries. Ćevapčići are often prepared by mixing finely chopped beef and pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, paprika and garlic.
The meat is then shaped into small, elongated sausages and grilled until golden brown and cooked through.
Grilling is a real science in the Balkans! Ćevapčići are no joke. They will very often be served to you with traditional bread called lepinja and raw onions!
Ask for kajmak (cheese) and ajvar (pepper condiment)as extras .
Pleskavica is a kind of minced steak that tastes very similar to cevapcici. It is eaten like a burger on the delicious round bread of the Blakans.
Das ist Valter
This secret restaurant next to the unmissable Metelkova squat is an excellent, inexpensive place to try Cevapcicis and pleskavica. This is definitely an establishment I recommend you try out during your stay in Ljubljana. Prices are low and you can treat yourself with friends or family by ordering several traditional dishes from the menu.
To get there, walk along rue Trubarjeva, a street as alternative as it is authentic, where I had my first flat in Ljubljana. Then cross the large esplanade at Museum Square and you’ll have a pleasant walk to this restaurant.
Das is Valter – Šmartinska c. 3
Sarajevo 84
The restaurant’s name refers to the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, just 7 years before war broke out. It serves Balkan specialities. You sit in the basement in a very authentic tavern style. You’ll generally feel comfortable here.
In summer, tables are set up along the main avenue slovenska cesta with red tablecloths with white dots, a nostalgic motif from Yugoslavia. It’s a pleasant place to be in summer.
On the barrier at the top of the stairs leading down to the restaurant, there is a sign showing the different dishes on the menu. Take a look at it, as it will help you make your choice much more easily.
Sarajevo 84 – Nazorjeva ulica 12
Leskovački dvor – Tito’s restaurant
A restaurant that doesn’t look like much, a little further from the centre (30 minutes on foot). It took me a while to realise that this was an excellent establishment and that the restaurant also had an indoor part.
The tiny terrace overlooks a busy avenue and is not very pleasant. However, in the small interior of the restaurant, you are greeted by a portrait of Tito, which is always a good sign. The decor is a jumble of old objects from Yugoslavia.
The food is good and the prices are low.
This is an excellent place to discover the flavours of the Balkans, but it is a little far from the centre.
It takes 30 minutes on foot, but it’s best to go by bike. They can be hired cheaply from the tourist office. An address where no tourist has ever set foot. Will you be the first?
On foot : If you’re going on foot, here’s the most pleasant route (it passes under the station)
Hallo Leskovac
This is where pleskavica is served in the centre of Ljubljana. The service is rude but the dishes are good and not very expensive. Order a simple pleskavica and choose the filling with the cook. There’s no need to order chips, because once you’ve eaten your pleskavica, you won’t be hungry any more.
You can also try Jelen beer, a good Serbian lager sold in yellow cans. I talk about it in the article devoted to the best restaurants in Ljubljana. You can eat at the tables in front of the stall or by joining the benches facing the river.
Grill Hallo Leskovac – 8 Levstikov trg
Gostilna Cad
This is one of the most beautiful traditional terraces in Ljubljana. White napes on the edge of the Serbian river. Agile old waiters with a gruff touch bring you Serbian grills accompanied by great beers, always very cold.
Make a discovery mix. Order different dishes from the menu.
Reach the restaurant by following the path that runs along the edge of the Tivoli Park forest, and you’ll have a pleasant , bucolic 30-minute journey.
Gostilna Cad – Cesta Roznik 18
Bascarsija, towards Sarajevo
The name of this restaurant in the centre of Ljubljana is Baščaršija. It’s a historic district that I really like located in the old town of Sarajevo, an emblematic place of Bosnian history and culture. Baščaršija dates back to the time of the Ottoman occupation of the area, when Sarajevo was an important trading city on the Silk Road. It’s a lively place with small streets, numerous cafés and restaurants. The narrow streets between the small houses with red-tiled roofs give the impression of being in Istanbul.
This restaurant, which opened in Ljubljana in 2023 , has a beautiful, quiet terrace by the water. Prices are affordable and it’s one of my favourite places to dine simply in the centre of Ljubljana. Try it on a fine summer’s evening. The lepinja bread is not as good as in the other restaurants in this article, but that’s no reason not to go.
Bascarsija – End of Turbarjeva street
